Australian Coastal Systems: Beaches, Barriers and Sediment Compartments (Coastal Research Library)

This book describes the entire coast and beaches and barrier systems of Australia. It covers the coastal processes and systems that form and impact Australia’s 30.000 km coast, 12.000 beaches and 2750 barrier systems. These processes include geology, geomorphology, climate, waves, tides, currents, sediment supply, as well as coastal ecosystems. The coast is divided into tropical northern and southern temperate provinces, within which are seven divisions, 23 regions and 354 coastal sediment compartments each of which is described in detail in the 34 chapters. Within these systems are the full range of wave through tide-dominated beaches and barriers ranging from cheniers to massive transgressive dune systems together with a range of onshore and longshore sand transport systems. This is an up to date reference for the entire coast, its present condition and likely responses to the impacts of climate change. Andrew Short is a marine scientist specializing in coastal processes and beach morphodynamics. He has degrees from the University of Sydney (BA Hons), University of Hawaii (MA), and Louisiana State University (PhD in Marine Science). He commenced his academic career as an assistant professor in the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University where he worked on the coasts of north Alaska and Brazil. He then moved to the School of Earth Sciences Macquarie University where he began his intensive study of beach systems around the Australian coast, which ultimately led to the development of the “Australian” beach models in collaboration with his colleague Don Wright. In 1977, he took up a position at the University of Sydney where he remained in the School of Geosciences until 2007. He has also been visiting professor at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science, Utrecht University, the University of Auckland, the University of Ulster, the Universidade Federal Rio Grande (Brazil), and the Universidade Federal do Santa Catarina (Brazil). He has conducted beach research on the coasts of North and South America, including north Alaska and Hawaii, and Brazil, Europe, New Zealand, Korea, South Africa, and the entire Australian coast. His main area of research and publication is in beach and surf zone morphodynamics, together with related interests in coastal dune and barrier systems, inner shelf morphodynamics, beach hazards and safety, coastal impacts of climate change, and coastal management. He is presently Honorary Professor in the School of Geosciences at the University of Sydney, Honorary Professorial Fellow in the School of Earth & Environmental Sciences at the University of Wollongong, Senior Coastal Scientist (part-time) with CoastalCOMS.com, and Chair of National Surfing Reserves (Australia). His extensive contribution to both coastal science and beach safety was recognized on Australia Day 2010 with the award of an Order of Australia Medal. Short has written 10 books, edited 4 books, and has over 200 scientific publications. His last book “Brazilian Beach Systems” covers the entire Brazilian coast and its seventeen coastal states. His most recent project, the “Australia Coastal Sediment Compartments” in collaboration with a small team of ‘coastal experts’ and funded by the National Climate Change Adaptation Research Facility, mapped and described all 354 coastal sediment compartments around the entire Australian coast as well as their likely response to climate change. These compartments form the basis for the present book “Australian Coastal Systems: beaches, barriers and sediment compartments” which is also based on his intimate knowledge of the entire Australian coast: its coastal processes, beaches and barrier systems. The Australian Coast: Introduction Abstract 1.1 Introduction 1.2 The Coast 1.3 Geology 1.4 Climate 1.5 Coastal processes 1.6 Australian coastal systems 1.7 Coastal sediment compartments References 2 Tropical Northern Province Abstract 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Geology 2.3 Climate 2.4 Coastal processes 2.5 Biological Processes 2.6 The tropical divisions and regions 2.7 Summary References 3 Northwest Division Abstract 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Geology and geomorphology 3.3 Climate 3.4 Coastal processes 3.5 Northwest beach systems 3.6 Northwest barrier systems 3.7 Summary References Chapter 4 The Pilbara region: Carnarvon, Pilbara and Canning coasts Abstract 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Carnarvon coast 4.3 Pilbara coast 4.3 Canning coast 4.5 Pilbara region overview References 5 Kimberley-Territory division Abstract 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Geology and geomorphology 5.3 Climate 5.4 Coastal Processes 5.5 Coastal ecosystems 5.6 Summary References 6 Kimberley region Abstract 6.1 Introduction 6.2 PC:WA13.01 Point Usborne to Traverse Island 6.3 PC:WA13.02 Traverse Island to Augereau Island 6.4 PC:WA13.03 Augereau Island to Cape Londonderry 6.5 PC:WA13.04 Cape Londonderry to Cape Domett 6.6 PC:W13.05 Cape Domett (WA) to Pearce Point (NT) 6.7 Regional overview References 7 Western Northern Territory region Abstract 7.1 Introduction 7.2 PC:NT01.01 Pearce Point – Gunn Point 7.3 PC:NT01.02 Van Diemen Gulf 7.4 Regional overview References 8 North Arnhem Land region Abstract 8.1 Introduction 8.2 PC:NT02.02 northern Coburg Peninsula 8.3 PC:NT02.03 central north Arnhem Land 8.4 PC0:NT2.04 northeast Arnhem Land 8.5 Regional overview References 9 Gulf of Carpentaria division Abstract 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Geology and geomorphology 9.3 Climate 9.4 Coastal processes 9.5 Coastal ecosystems 9.6 Beach systems 9.7 Summary References 10 East Arnhem Land region Abstract 10.1 Introduction 10.2 PC:NT03.01: Cape Arnhem-Cape Barrow 10.3 PC:NT03.02: Cape Barrow-Warrakunta Point 10.4 Regional overview References 11 Southern Gulf of Carpentaria region Abstract 11.1 Introduction 11.2 PC:NT04.01 Warrakunta Point to Calvert River 11.3 PC:QLD01.01 Calvert River to Norman River 11.4 Summary References 12 Western Cape York Peninsula region Abstract 12.1 Introduction 12.2 PC:QLD02.01: Karumba-South Mitchell River 12.3 PC:QLD02.02: South Mitchell River-Van Spoult Head 12.4 Regional overview References 13 Northeast Division Abstract 13.1 Introduction 13.2 Queensland geology 13.3 Climate 13.4 Coastal processes 13.5 Rivers and sediment supply 13.6 Biological Processes 13.7 Beach systems 13.8 Barrier systems 13.9 Summary References 14 Eastern Cape York Peninsula region Abstract 14.1 Introduction 14.2 PC:QLD03.01 Van Spoult Head-Sharp Point 14.3 PC:QLD03.02 Sharp Point-Cape Grenville 14.4 PC:QLD03.03 Cape Grenville-Stewart River 14.5 PC:QLD03.04 Stewart River-Cape Melville 14.6 PC:QLD03.05 Cape Melville-Cape Flattery 14.7 PC:QLD03.06 Cape Flattery to Cape Grafton 14.8 PC:QLD03.07 Cape Grafton-Cape Cleveland 14.9 PC:QLD03.08 Cape Cleveland-Cape Conway 14.10 Regional overview References 15 Central Queensland region Abstract 15.1 Introduction 15.2 PC:QLD04.01 Cape Conway to Cape Palmerston 15.3 PC:QLD04.02 Broad Sound: Cape Palmerston-Cape Townshend 15.4 PC:QLD04.03 Townshend Island-Round Hill 15.5 PC:QLD04.04 Round Hill-Sandy Cape 15.6 Regional overview References 16 Temperate Southern province Abstract 16.1 Introduction 16.2 Geology 16.3 Climate 16.4 Coastal processes 16.5 Biological Processes 16.6 Summary References 17 Southeast division Abstract 17.1 Introduction 17.2 Geology 17.3 Climate 17.4 Coastal processes 17.5 Biological processes 17.6 Beach systems 17.7 Barrier systems 17.8 Division summary References 18 Central East region Abstract 18.1 Introduction 18.2 QLD05 southeast Queensland 18.3 PC:QLD05.01 Sandy Cape- Skirmish Point 18.4 PC05.02 Moreton Bay 18.5 PC05.03 Moreton Is-Stradbroke Is-Gold Coast 18.6 Northern NSW (NSW01) 18.7 PC:NSW01.01 Pt Danger-Clarence River (Yamba) 18.8 PC:NSW01.02 Yamba-South West Rocks 18.9 PC:NSW01.03 Laggers Point to Cape Hawke 18.10 Northern NSW regional overview 18.11 Central east overview References 19 Southern NSW region Abstract 19.1 Introduction 19.2 PC:NSW02.01 Cape Hawke-Port Stephens 19.3 PC:NSW02.02 Newcastle & Central Coast 19.4 PC:NSW02.03 Sydney Coast 19.5 PC:NSW02.04 Illawarra coast 19.6 PC:NSW02.05 Jervis Bay-Wasp Head 19.7 PC:NSW02.06 Wasp Head to Cape Howe 19.8 Regional overview References 20 Gippsland Region Abstract 20.1 Introduction 20.2 Geology 20.3 Coastal processes 20.4 Beaches and sediments 20.5 Sand transport 20.6 Barriers 20.7 PC:VIC01 Cape Howe to Cape Conran 20.8 PC:VIC01.02 Ninety Mile Beach: Cape Conran to Corner Inlet 20.9 PC:VIC01.03 eastern Wilsons Promontory 20.10 Regional overview References 21 East Tasmania region Abstract 21.1 Introduction 21.2 J L ‘Jack’ Davies 21.3 Geology 21.4 Neotectonics and sea level 21.5 Rivers and creeks 21.6 Sediments and processes 21.7 Beaches 21.8 Barriers 21.9 Sand transport 21.10 PC:TAS01.01 Flinders island-east coast 21.11 PC:TAS01.02 The northeast coast 21.12 PC:TAS01.03 Cape Sonnerat-Cape Pillar 21.13 PC:TAS01.04 Cape Pillar-South East Cape 21.14 Regional Overview References 22 Great Southern Division Abstract 22.1 Introduction 22.2 Climate 22.3 Geology 22.4 Waves and tides 22.5 Shelf waves 22.6 Ocean currents 22.7 Sea surface temperature 22.8 River and estuaries 22.9 Coastal sediments 22.10 Sea level 22.11 Biological processes 22.12 Beach systems 22.11 Barrier systems 22.12 Summary References 23 West Tasmania region Abstract 23.1 Introduction 23.2 Rivers and creeks 23.3 Sediments and processes 23.4 Beaches 23.5 Barriers 23.6 Sand transport 23.7 PC:TAS02.01 South East Cape to South West Cape 23.8 PC:TAS02.02 South West Cape-Cape Sorrell 23.9 PC:TAS02.03 Cape Sorrel to Cape Wickham (King Island) 23.10 Regional overview References 24 North Tasmania region Abstract 24.1 Introduction 24.2 Geology 24.3 Climate 24.4 Rivers and creeks 24.5 Sediments and processes 24.6 Beaches 24.7 Barriers 24.8 Sand transport 24.9 PC:TAS03.01 Woolnorth Pt-Devenport 24.10 PC:TAS03.02 Devenport-Cape Portland 24.11 PC:TAS 03.03 Flinders Island west coast 24.12 PC:TAS03.04 King island: east coast 24.13 Regional overview References 25 Central and Western Victoria region Abstract 25.1 Introduction 25.2 Geology 25.3 Climate 25.4 Rivers and creeks 25.5 Sediments and processes 25.6 Beaches 25.7 Barriers 25.8 Sand transport 25.9 PC:VIC03.01 Central Victoria: Wilsons Promontory- Port Phillip Bay 25.10 PC:VIC03.02 Surf Coast: Point Lonsdale-Cape Otway 25.11 PC:VIC03.02 Cape Otway-Point Danger (SA) 25.12 Regional Overview References 26 Southern South Australia Abstract 26.1 Introduction 26.2 Geology 26.3 Climate 26.4 Rivers and creeks 26.5 Sediment 26.6 Waves 26.7 Tides and sea level 26.8 Beaches 26.9 Barriers 26.10 Sand transport 26.11 PC:SA01.01 The Limestone Coast: Point Danger to Cape Jaffa 26.12 PC:01.02/SC01.02.01 The Coorong (Younghusband and Sir Richard peninsulas) 26.13 PC:SA01.03 Fleurieu Peninsula-south coast 26.14 PC:SA01.04 Kangaroo Island- south and west coast 26.15 Regional overview References 27 South Australian Gulfs Abstract 27.1 Introduction 27.2 Climate 27.2 Rivers and creeks 27.3 Sediment and processes 27.4 Waves 27.5 Tides and sea level 27.6 Coastal ecology 27.7 Beaches 27.8 Barriers 27.9 Sand transport 27.10 PC:SA02.01 northern Kangaroo Island and St Vincent Gulf 27.11 PC:SA02.02 Spencer Gulf 27.12 Regional Overview References 28 Western Eyre Peninsula region Abstract 28.1 Introduction 28.2 Geology 28.3 Rivers and creeks 28.4 Sediments 28.5 Coastal processes 28.6 Beaches 28.7 Barriers 28.8 Sand transport 28.9 PC:SA03.01 Cape Catastrophe-Cape Radstock 28.10 PC:SA03.02 central western Eyre Peninsula 28.11 PC:SA03.03 western Eyre Peninsula 28.12 Regional overview References 29 Nullabor region Abstract 29.1 Introduction 29.2 Geology 29.3 Sediments 29.4 Coastal processes 29.5 Beaches 29.6 Barriers 29.7 Sand transport 29.8 PC/SC:SA03.04.01 Nullabor Cliffs 29.9 PC:WA01.01 Roe Plain: Wilson Bluff-Twilight Cove 29.10 PC:WA01.02 Baxter Cliffs:Twilight Cove-Point Culver 29.11 PC:WA01.03 Point Culver-Cape Palsey 29.12 Regional overview References 30 South Western Australia region Abstract 30.1 Introduction 30.2 Geology 30.3 Climate 30.4 Rivers 30.5 Sediments and shelf 30.6 Coastal processes 30.7 Beaches 30.8 Barriers 30.9 Sand transport 30.11 PC:WA02.02 Shoal Cape to Red Island 30.12 PC:WA03.01 Red Island to Herald Point 30.13 PC/SC:WA03.02.01 King George Sound 30.14 PC:WA04.01 Bald Head to Point Nuyts 30.15 PC:WA04.02 Point Nuyts to Point D’Entrecasteaux 30.16 PC:WA04.02 Point D’Entrecasteaux to Cape Leeuwin 30.17 Regional overview References 31 Southwest Division Abstract 31.1 Introduction 31.2 Geology 31.3 Climate 31.4 Waves and tides 31.5 Ocean currents and sea temperature 31.6 River and estuaries 31.7 Coastal sediments 31.8 Sediment transport 31.9 Sea level 31.10 Biological processes 31.11 Beach systems 31.12 Barrier systems 31.13 Sediment compartments 31.14 Summary References 32 Southwest Western Australia region Abstract 32.1 Introduction 32.2 Sediments 32.3 Coastal processes 32.3 Beaches 32.4 Barriers 32.5 Sand transport 32.6 PC/SC:WA05.01.01 Cape Leeuwin-Cape Naturaliste 32.7 PC:WA06.01 Cape Naturaliste-Robert Point 32.8 PC:WA06.02 Robert Point-Moore River 32.9 PC:WA07.01 Moore River-North Head 32.10 PC:WA07.02 North Head-Glenfield Beach 32.11 PC:WA08.01 Glenfield Beach-Broken Anchor Bay 32.12 PC/SC:08.02.01Broken Anchor Bay-Murchinson River 32.13 Regional overview References 33 Central west Western Australia region Abstract 33.1 Introduction 33.2 Sediments 33.3 Coastal processes 33.4   Beaches 33.5 Barriers 33.6 Sand transport 33.7 PC:WA09.01 The Zuytdorp Cliffs 33.8 PC:WA09.02 Dirk Hartog Is-Cape Peron North 33.9 PC:WA09.03 Hopeless Reach-Hamelin Pool 33.10 PC:WA09.04 The Gascoyne River delta 33.11 PC:WA10.01 Point Quobba-Alison Point 33.12 PC:WA10.02 Ningaloo Reef 33.13 PC:WA10.03 Western Exmouth Gulf 33.14 Regional overview References 34 The Australian coast – review and overview Abstract 34.1 Introduction 34.2 Australian beach systems – spatial distribution 34.3 Large scale spatial controls on beaches 34.4 Barrier systems 34.5 Division barrier characteristics 34.6 Regional barrier systems and sediment supply 34.7 Regional sediment characteristics 34.8 Coastal impacts of climate change 34.9 Investigating coastal sediment compartments 34.10 Summary and conclusions References Appendices Australian coastal systems: beaches, barriers and sediment compartments The Australian Coast: Introduction Abstract 1.1 Introduction 1.2 The Coast 1.2.1 Dimensions and classification 1.3 Geology 1.3.1 Geological evolution 1.3.2 Coastal geology 1.4 Climate 1.4.1 Air masses and pressure systems 1.4.2 Tropical cyclones 1.4.3 Wind 1.4.4 Climate types 1.5 Coastal processes 1.5.1 Waves 1.5.2 Storm surges 1.5.3 Tides 1.5.4 Tsunami 1.5.5 Oceanography 1.6 Australian coastal systems 1.6.1 Beach systems 1.6.2 Sand origins and transport 1.6.3 Estuaries and deltas 1.6.4 Dunes and Barriers 1.6.5 Rocky coast morphodynamics 1.6.6 Sea level and climate change 1.7 Coastal sediment compartments References 2 Tropical Northern Province Abstract 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Geology 2.3 Climate 2.4 Coastal processes 2.4.1 Waves 2.4.2 Tides 2.4.3 Rivers 2.4.4 Sediments 2.4.5 Beach types 2.4.6 Sediment transport 2.5 Biological Processes 2.5.1 Coastal dune vegetation 2.5.2 Samphire vegetation 2.5.3 Mangroves 2.5.4 Seagrass meadows 2.5.5 Coral reefs 2.5.6 Turtles 2.5.7 Crocodiles 2.6 The tropical divisions and regions 2.7 Summary References 3 Northwest Division Abstract 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Geology and geomorphology 3.3 Climate 3.4 Coastal processes 3.4.1 Waves 3.4.2 Tides 3.4.3 Storm surges 3.4.5 Tsunami 3.4.6 River flooding and sediment supply 3.4.7 Deltas 3.4.8 Sediments 3.4.9 Sediment transport 3.4.10 Water temperature 3.5 Northwest beach systems 3.6 Northwest barrier systems 3.7 Summary References Chapter 4 The Pilbara region: Carnarvon, Pilbara and Canning coasts Abstract 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Carnarvon coast 4.2.1 Introduction 4.2.2 PC:WA11.01 Giralia Bay to Locker Point 4.2.3 PC:WA11.02 Locker Point to James Point 4.2.4 Carnarvon overview 4.3 Pilbara coast 4.3.1 Introduction 4.3.2 PC:WA11.03 James Point to Cape Lambert 4.3.3 PC:WA11.04 Cape Lambert to Beeringara Creek 4.3.4 Pilbara overview 4.3 Canning coast 4.4.1 Introduction 4.4.2 PC:WA12.01 De Grey River delta-Shoonta Hill 4.4.3 PC:WA12.02 Eighty Mile Beach 4.4.4 PC:WA12.03 Cape Jaubert to Dampier Peninsula (west) 4.4.5 PC:WA12.04 King Sound 4.4.6 Canning overview 4.5 Pilbara region overview References 5 Kimberley-Territory division Abstract 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Geology and geomorphology 5.2.1 Kimberley region 5.2.2 Northern Territory region 5.2.3 Laterite 5.3 Climate 5.4 Coastal Processes 5.4.1 Waves 5.4.2 Tides 5.4.3 Rivers and streams 5.4.4 Beaches 5.5 Coastal ecosystems 5.5.1 Coastal dune vegetation 5.5.2 Mangroves 5.5.3 Seagrass 5.5.4 Coral reefs 5.6 Summary References 6 Kimberley region Abstract 6.1 Introduction 6.1.1 Rivers and streams 6.1.2 Beaches and sediments 6.2 PC:WA13.01 Point Usborne to Traverse Island 6.2.1 Beaches and sediments 6.2.2 Barriers 6.3 PC:WA13.02 Traverse Island to Augereau Island 6.3.1 Rivers and streams 6.3.2 Beaches and sediments 6.3.3 Barriers 6.4 PC:WA13.03 Augereau Island to Cape Londonderry 6.4.1 Rivers and streams 6.4.2 Beaches and sediments 6.4.3 Barriers 6.5 PC:WA13.04 Cape Londonderry to Cape Domett 6.5.1 Rivers and streams 6.5.2 Beaches and sediments 6.5.3 Barriers 6.6 PC:W13.05 Cape Domett (WA) to Pearce Point (NT) 6.6.1 Rivers and streams 6.6.2 Beaches and sediments 6.6.3 Barriers 6.7 Regional overview References 7 Western Northern Territory Abstract 7.1 Introduction 7.2 PC:NT01.01 Pearce Point – Gunn Point 7.2.1 Rivers and creeks 7.2.2 Sediment and processes 7.2.3 Beaches 7.2.4 Sand transport 7.2.5 Barrier systems 7.2.6 SC:NT01.01.01: Pearce Point – Cape Ford 7.2.7 SC:NT01.01.02: Cape Ford-Dundee Beach 7.2.8 SC:NT01.01.03-04: Dundee Beach – Gunn Point 7.3 PC01.02: Van Diemen Gulf 7.3.1 Sediments and processes 7.3.2 Beaches 7.3.3 Barrier systems 7.3.4 Sediment transport 7.3.5 SC:NT01.02.01: Gunn Point – Cape Hotham 7.3.6 SC:NT01.02.02: Cape Hotham – Point Stuart 7.3.7 SC:NT01.02.03: Point Stuart – Point Farewell 7.3.8 SC:NT01.02.04: Point Farewell – Waragil Point 7.3.9 SC:NT01.02.05: Waragil Point – Cape Don 7.4 Regional overview References 8 North Arnhem Land region Abstract 8.1 Introduction 8.1.1 Rivers and deltas 8.1.2 Sediments and processes 8.1.3 Beaches 8.1.4 Barriers 8.2 PC:NT02.02: the northern Coburg Peninsula 8.2.1 Rivers and creeks 8.2.2 Sediments and processes 8.2.3 Beaches 8.2.4 Barriers 8.2.5 SC:NT02.02.01-02 8.2.6 PC overview 8.3 PC:NT02.03: central north Arnhem Land 8.3.1 Rivers and creeks 8.3.2 Sediments and processes 8.3.3 Beaches 8.3.4 Barriers 8.3.5 SC:NT02.03.01-03 8.3.6 PC overview 8.4 PC0:NT2.04: northeast Arnhem Land 8.4.1 Rivers and creeks 8.4.2 Sediments and processes 8.4.3 Beaches 8.4.4 Barriers 8.4.5 SC’s:NT02.04.01-2 8.4.6 PC overview 8.5 Regional overview References 9 Gulf of Carpentaria division Abstract 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Geology and geomorphology 9.2.1 Lake Carpentaria 9.2.2 Laterite 9.3 Climate 9.4 Coastal Processes 9.4.1 Waves 9.4.2 Tides 9.4.3 Water circulation and sediments 9.4.4 Rivers 9.5 Coastal ecosystems 9.6 Beach systems 9.7 Summary References 10 East Arnhem Land region Abstract 10.1 Introduction 10.1.1 Rivers and streams 10.1.2 Sediments and coastal processes 10.2 PC:NT03.01: Cape Arnhem-Cape Barrow 10.2.1 Beaches and sediments 10.2.2 Barriers 10.2.3 Sediment transport 10.2.4 SC:NT03.01.01: Cape Arnhem-Wanyanmear Point 10.2.5 SC:NT03.01.02: Wanyanmear Point-Cape Shield 10.2.6 SC:NT03.01.03: Blue Mud Bay 10.2.7 north Bickerton, Winchlesea and Groote islands (NT03.01.04) 10.3 PC:NT03.02: Cape Barrow-Warrakunta Point 10.3.1 Rivers and streams 10.3.2 Sediments and beaches 10.3.3 Barriers 10.3.4 south Groote and Bickerton islands 10.4 Regional overview References 11 Southern Gulf of Carpentaria Abstract 11.1 Introduction 11.1.1 Rivers and creeks 11.1.2 Sediments and coastal processes 11.1.3 Beaches 11.1.4 Barriers 11.2 PC:NT04.01: Warrakunta Point to Calvert River 11.3 PC:QLD01.01: Calvert River to Norman River 11.4 Summary References 12 Western Cape York Peninsula region Abstract 12.1 Introduction 12.1.1 Rivers 12.1.2 Coastal processes 12.1.3 Sediments and beaches 12.1.4 Beaches 12.1.5 Barriers 12.2 PC:QLD02.01: Karumba-South Mitchell River 12.3 PC:QLD02.02: South Mitchell River-Van Spoult Head 12.4 Regional overview References 13 Northeast Division Abstract 13.1 Introduction 13.2 Queensland geology 13.2.1 Geological evolution 13.2.2 Coastal geology 13.2.3 Great Barrier Reef 13.2.4 Geology, sediments and beaches 13.3 Climate 13.3.1 High pressure systems 13.3.2 Sea breeze systems 13.3.3 Cyclonic systems 13.4 Coastal processes 13.4.1 Waves 13.4.2 Tides 13.4.3 Sea level 13.4.4 Ocean Currents 13.4.5 Sea surface temperature 13.5 Rivers and sediment supply 13.5.1 Sediment transport 13.6 Biological Processes 13.7 Beach systems 13.8 Barrier systems 13.9 Summary References 14 Eastern Cape York Peninsula region Abstract 14.1 Introduction 14.2 PC:QLD03.01: Van Spoult Head-Sharp Point 14.2.1 Rivers and creeks 14.2.2 Coastal processes, beaches and sediments 14.2.3 Barriers 14.2.4 PC overview 14.3 PC:QLD03.02: Sharp Point-Cape Grenville 14.3.1 Rivers and creeks 14.3.2 Sediments and processes 14.3.3 Beaches 14.3.4 Barriers 14.3.5 Sediment transport 14.3.6 PC overview 14.4 PC:QLD03.03: Cape Grenville-Stewart River 14.4.1 Rivers and creeks 14.4.2 Sediments & Processes – waves, tides, wind 14.4.3 Beaches 14.4.3 Barriers 14.4.5 SC:QLD03.03.01 Cape Granville-Bolt Head 14.4.6 SC:QLD03.03.02 Bolt Head-Cape Weymouth 14.4.7 SC:QLD03.03.03 Cape Weymouth-Cape Direction 14.4.8 SC:QLD03.03.04 Cape Direction-Cape Sidmouth 14.4.9 SC:QLD03.03.05 Cape Sidmouth-Stewart River 14.4.10 PC overview 14.5 PC:QLD03.04: Stewart River-Cape Melville 14.5.1 River and Creeks 15.5.2 Coastal processes 14.5.3 Beaches 14.5.4 Barriers 14.5.5 SC:QLD03.04.01 Princess Charlottle Bay 14.5.6 SC:QLD03.04.02 Bathurst Head to Cape Melville 14.5.7 PC overview 14.6 PC:QLD03.05: Cape Melville-Cape Flattery 14.6.1 Rivers and creeks 14.6.2 Coastal processes and sediments 14.6.3 Beaches 14.6.4 Barriers 14.6.5 SC:QLD03.05.01 Cape Melville to Murdoch Point 14.6.6 SC:QLD03.05.02 Murdoch Point-Cape Flattery 14.6.7 PC overview 14.7 PC:QLD03.06: Cape Flattery to Cape Grafton 14.7.1 Rivers and creeks 14.7.2 Coastal processes and sediments 14.7.3 Beaches 14.7.4 Barriers 17.7.5 SC:QLD03.06.01 Cape Flattery-Endeavour River 17.7.6 SC:QLD03.06.02 Endeavour River-Cape Kimberley 17.7.7 SC:QLD03.06.03 Cape Kimberley-Port Douglas 17.7.9 SC:QLD03.06.04 Port Douglas-Cape Grafton 14.7.6 PC overview 14.8 PC:QLD03.07: Cape Grafton-Cape Cleveland 14.8.1 Rivers and creeks 14.8.2 Coastal processes and sediments 14.8.3 Beaches 14.8.4 Barriers 14.8.5 SC:QLD03.07.01 Cape Grafton-Saltwater Creek 14.8.6 SC:QLD03.07.02 Saltwater Ck-Cooper Pt 14.8.7 SC:QLD03.07.03 Saltwater Ck-Cooper Pt 14.8.8 SC:QLD03.07.04 Cooper Point-Double Point 14.8.9 SC:QLD03.07.05 T O’Shanter Point-Cape Richards 14.8.10 SC:QLD03.07.06 Cape Richards-Lucinda 14.8.11 SC:QLD03.07.07 Hinchinbrook Channel 14.8.12 SC:QLD03.07.08-09 Lucinda-Eleanor Creek-Cape Pallarenda 14.8.13 SC:QLD03.07.10 Cape Pallarenda-Cape Cleveland 14.8.14 PC overview 14.9 PC:QLD03.08: Cape Cleveland-Cape Conway 14.9.1 Rivers and creeks 14.9.2 Coastal processes and sediments 14.9.3 Beaches 14.9.4 Barriers 14.9.5 SC:QLD03.08.01 Cape Cleveland-Cape Bowling Green 14.9.6 SC:QLD03.08.02 Cape Bowling Green-Cape Upstart 14.9.7 SC:QLD03.08.03 Cape Upstart-Abbott Point 14.9.8 SC:QLD03.08.04 Abbott Point-Cape Edgecumbe 14.9.9 SC:QLD03.08.05 Cape Edgecumbe-Cape Gloucester 14.9.10 SC:QLD03.08.06 Cape Gloucester-Pioneer Point 14.9.11 SC:QLD03.08.06 Pioneer Point-Cape Conway 14.9.12 PC overview 14.10 Regional overview References 15 Central Queensland region Abstract 15.1 Introduction 15.1.1 Coastal geology 15.1.2 Rivers and creeks 15.1.3 Coastal processes and sediments 15.1.4 Beaches 15.1.5 Barriers 15.2 PC:QLD04.01 Cape Conway to Cape Palmerston 15.2.1 Rivers and creeks 15.2.2 Coastal processes and sediments 15.2.3 Beaches 15.2.4 Barriers 15.2.5 SC:QLD04.01.01 Cape Conway-Proserpine River 15.2.6 SC:QLD04.01.02 Proserpine River-Cape Hillsborough 15.2.7 SC:QLD04.01.03 Cape Hillsborough-Pioneer River 15.2.8 SC:QLD04.01.04 Pioneer River-Dudgeon Point 15.2.9 SC:QLD04.01.05 Dudgeon Point-Cape Palmerston 15.2.10 PC overview 15.3 PC:QLD04.02 Broad Sound: Cape Palmerston-Cape Townshend 15.3.1 Rivers and creeks 15.3.2 Coastal processes and sediments 15.3.3 Beaches 15.3.4 Barriers 15.3.5 SC:QLD04.02.01-03 Cape Palmerston-Townshend Island 15.3.6 PC Overview 15.4 PC:QLD04.03 Townshend Island-Ro